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Special Dial

Cartier Panthere SM in steel ref. 1320, box & papers

Cartier Panthere SM in steel ref. 1320, box & papers

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Maker: Cartier
Model: Panthere
Reference: 1320
Model code: W25033P5
Size: SM (small)
Year:2001
Case & Bezel Material: stainless steel
Case Dimensions: 23mm diameter (including crown guard), 30mm lug to lug
Movement: Cartier Quartz movement
Service history: August 2023
Bracelet/Strap: original Cartier integrated bracelet in steel. Comes with full links and  fits wrist size up to 14.5cm (about 6 inches)
Box/Papers: Cartier inner and outer box, certificate of guarantee, and user manual.


Unlike the Tank, the Panthère isn't quite a household name. First introduced in 1983 during the heyday of opulence, the Panthere was praised for its sleek design, concealed clasp, and linked bracelet. The bracelet was explicitly designed so that the watch can double as a jewelry piece; beauty and functionality rolled into one, wrapped stylishly around the wrist. Enthusiasts of Cartier timepieces are sure to observe the resemblances shared by the Panthere and the Santos. Both watches boast square cases, screw set bezels, and similar Roman numeral dials in common. However, the Panthere, while drawing inspiration from the Santos design, exhibits a more delicate, compact, and slim profile, ultimately giving it an air of sophistication. Furthermore, it's the exquisite Panthere brick-lay bracelet design that truly sets it apart.

The Panthere was produced in a range of sizes but also a diverse selection of materials, including options like white gold, yellow gold, and a combination of steel and gold. Additionally, they introduced luxurious variations that blended white gold with rose gold, not to mention an abundance of opulent models adorned with diamonds. The first generation of Panthere wrist watches were produced from 1983 until 2004 and came in five main sizes: the mini, SM (small), MM (medium), LM (large), and jumbo. Notably, Cartier initially targeted both men and women with the Panthere watch. The Mini and Small variants were positioned as women's timepieces, the Medium as a versatile unisex option, and the Large and Jumbo catered to men's preferences. Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, the Panthere enjoyed tremendous popularity, epitomizing the glamour of that era. Its unique style perfectly complemented the tastes of the fashionable elite, making the Panthere de Cartier a quintessential luxury watch of its time. It quickly became a huge hit among the who's who, men and women alike, with celebrities such as Pierce Brosnan. Keith Richards, and recently Timothy Chalamet amongst the noted wearers.

Overall, this piece is in fantastic condition. The case, bezel, and bracelet has some minor scratches throughout but is in overall clean condition. The dial has aged beautifully to an ivory white color and is overall clean with no blemishes. The crystal has minor scratches. The blue steeled hands and blue sapphire cabochon is in excellent condition. The quartz movement was last serviced in August 2023 with a new battery installed. The watch comes with its outer/inner box, Cartier certificate of guarantee, and instruction manual.


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