Cartier Ceinture in yellow gold, ref 78099 LM size, Swiss dial, with Cartier gold deployant clasp

Maker: Cartier
Model: Ceinture
Year: late 1970’s
Dial: White Lacquer Paris dial
Case Material: 18K Yellow Gold
Dimensions: 27mm by 27.5mm diameter; 6.6mm thickness
Case serial: 780992395
Caliber: Manual caliber 78-1
Service history: January 2025, +12.2 seconds per day
Bracelet/Strap: Original 18k yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp and original Cartier black leather strap (in worn condition). Also comes with a new beige calf strap (pictured). 
Lug Width: 16mm
Box/Papers: Cartier box only

The Ceinture was originally introduced by Cartier in 1927. Over 50 years later, during the early 1970's, Cartier reintroduced the Ceinture as one of 12 special "shaped" watches that formed part of the “Louis Cartier Collection”. This 12 shape collection included familiar models such as the Ellipse, Cristallor, Gondollo, Coussin and Stepped Tank. The word Ceinture in French translates to "belt", and the watch was named as such given its resemblance to the buckle of a belt. The Ceinture in this era was produced either in white gold, yellow gold, or a combination of white gold and yellow gold. The octagonal case has a beautiful double stepped bezel and the manual wind 78-1 caliber can be wound by a flat octagonal crown. The present example here is the Ceinture in the LM size which was produced for men's. At 27mm by 27.5mm and 6.6mm thick, the case on this Ceinture is made from 18k yellow gold. The Ceinture stands as a perfect example of why Cartier is often referred to as the "master of shapes". The maison's astonishing talent lies in crafting refreshingly unique designs that defy the traditional norms of their era.

This Cartier Ceinture in 18k yellow gold is offered in excellent vintage condition and comes with its original Cartier yellow gold deployant clasp—a collectible and valuable item in its own right.

The octagonal case, defined by its distinctive double-stepped bezel, remains sharp and well preserved, exhibiting an attractive and even patina. Minor surface wear is present, consistent with age, and enhances the watch’s overall vintage character.

This Ceinture features a Mark III “Swiss only” dial. The Mark III configuration is distinguished by the flat-topped “A” in Cartier and the presence of the Cartier secret signature at the 7 o’clock position. The “Swiss only” signature indicates that the watch was originally retailed through Cartier New York. A common misconception is that Paris-signed dials are inherently rarer or more valuable—often driven by the romantic association of Cartier with Paris. In practice, for the Ceinture, Swiss-only dials are in fact slightly scarcer than their Paris-signed counterparts, as evidenced by the majority of examples that we've sold in the past being Paris-signed.

The original white lacquer “Swiss” dial is exceptionally well preserved, showing no significant blemishes or discoloration. While lacquer dials from the 1970s are notoriously prone to pronounced cracking, this example is largely unaffected, with only minimal hairline cracking visible under magnification. The black painted Roman numerals remain sharp and vibrant, maintaining strong contrast. Given that many original lacquer dials have been replaced over time, surviving original examples like this have become increasingly desirable and represent an important consideration when evaluating a vintage Cartier from this era.

The watch is powered by Cartier’s caliber 78-1 manual-wind movement, previously serviced by the prior owner and currently running well at approximately +12.2 seconds per day.

The watch is accompanied by its original 18k yellow gold deployant clasp, with sharp hallmarks and visible stamps from French goldsmith Gociete Francisspamand alongside the Cartier signature and serial number—details highly prized by collectors. The clasp itself carries significant intrinsic and collector value. The watch is accompanied by a Cartier box.

Ships from Japan