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Special Dial

IWC dress watch in Platinum, cal. 853 from early 1960's

IWC dress watch in Platinum, cal. 853 from early 1960's

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Maker: IWC (International Watch Co.)
Reference: N/A
Year: early 1960s
Case No: 125801
Material: Platinum (Pt 900), Japan made case
Dimensions: 35mm diameter; 11.5mm thickness
Crystal: Plexiglass
Lume: Yes
Caliber: IWC automatic-winding caliber 853
Service history: October 2021, movement running at +9.3 sec/day
Bracelet/Strap: Black saffiano leather strap from Delugs
Lug Width: 18mm
Box/Papers: N/A

IWC has been a mainstay in the Japanese collector community for years and we are proud to offer a rare platinum vintage IWC that just might be the perfect dress watch. The 35mm case measurement may seem small by today’s standards, but the proportions between the case and dial and everything in between are perfectly calibrated. The simple baton index, alpha hands, and elegant case design all work together harmoniously. 

During the 1960’s and 70’s in order to avoid having to pay hefty import duties imposed on precious metals, Swiss brands made the decision to produce parts of a watch at the country where the watch was to be sold. This practice was commonplace in countries such as the US by brands such as Rolex, Omeha and Longines. It occurred in Japan too where brands such as Rolex, most famously would outsource Japanese manufacturers  to produce there precious metal bracelets for models such as the Day Date and Datejust. These Japan made bracelets unsurprisingly command a premium in the market these days. IWC, which arguably, was the third most popular Swiss brand (after Rolex and Omega) in Japan during the early 60's decided to outsource their case production to Japanese manufacturers. As a result there are yellow gold, white gold, and platinum made in Japan IWC cases with each marked by an engraving of a Japanese flag within the case back. These Japan made cases are highly regarded by collectors here in Japan. 

This watch is fitted with IWC’s respected caliber 853, which traces its lineage to the caliber 85 family of movements developed by the great Albert Pellaton. Patented in 1950, models featuring the 85X family of movements  were to remain a central feature of IWC watches for almost 40 years. 

This vintage IWC is in overall great condition. The case appears to be slightly polished in the past but retains a nice sharp edge. The white dial is in great condition and has aged to a beautiful cream color. The hands, hour, and minute markers, show little ageing and is in overall good condition. The crystal has some tiny scratches but nothing noticeable. The caseback has some bumps and scratches. The inner caseback have clear engravings of its serial number as well as the Pt (for platinum) logo and Japan Flag. The caliber 853 movement has just been serviced in October 2021 and is currently running at +9.3 seconds/day.

Ships from Japan


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