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Special Dial

Cartier Must Tank Brown "Wood" effect Lacquer Dial, LM mechanical movement

Cartier Must Tank Brown "Wood" effect Lacquer Dial, LM mechanical movement

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Maker: Cartier
Model: Must de Cartier Tank
Size: LM (large)
Year: early 1990's
Dial: Brown "wood" effect lacquer dial with Rhodium sword hands
Case: Gold Plated 925 Sold Silver Vermeil case
Case Dimensions: 23.3mm (excluding crown) x 31 mm diameter. Thickness 6mm
Movement: Manual wind movement (caliber 78-1), running at +4.2 sec/day
Service history:  NA
Lug width: 17mm
Bracelet/Strap: original Cartier Alligator Strap with Cartier gold plated buckle
Box/Papers: original Cartier Box


Inspired by the Renault tanks that the French jeweler saw in battle on the Western Front during the first World War, the Tank has been the foundation of Cartier since 1917. This example is the Tank released as part of the Must de Cartier line which was simultaneously a marketing concept and a brand name under the French maison first introduced in 1977. The watch paid tribute to the original Tank Louis Cartier and was launched with more than a dozen different dial options, like dark blue, red, and even a striped pattern. This example is the highly coveted Brown lacquer dial that has a wood like texture.

Overall, this Must Tank is in great vintage condition. The case has scratches and was most likely polished in the past but retains its beautiful lines and all the hallmarks are very crisp on the vermeil gold plated case and caseback. The plastic crystal has some scratches too but nothing major. The highlight of this piece is the original brown lacquer dial which has developed a beautiful wood like marble effect. These brown dial Must Tank's all age differently but many develop this wood texture which is very pleasing to the eyes. As is common with all Must Tank lacquer dials, this example has developed some cracks throughout the dial. There is no peeling of the cracks or blemishes on the dial. The original rhodium hands as well as the blue spinel cabochon has aged but is in overall good shape. The movement history is unknown. However, our watchmaker checked the movement and made some minor adjustments and it is currently running at +4.2 sec/day. The watch comes with its original Cartier burgundy alligator strap (worn) as well as  its original Cartier gold plated buckle. It comes with a Must Cartier box as well.

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